Archive for the ‘Furniture’ Category

Settle Bench

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

The settle bench was a convenient article of furniture in the colonial home, doubling as both a table and bench. This bench, which can be built from either pine or hardwood, is an excellent example of traditional Colonial style craftsmanship. It includes the most desirable settle bench features: the wide pivoting tabic top, and the hinged seat board opening to a storage compartment below.
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Settle Bench. Part 2.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

After the top has been made fasten it securely to the two cross braces (K). Because the fastening system used here must accommodate movement across the width of the top, we have chosen to use screws inserted through the top, countersunk and then plugged. A fixed center screw is inserted to equalize movement, while the outer screw hoies are elongated (slotted) to accommodate this movement. The fastening detail shows a cross section of these slotted screw holes. When elongating the screw holes take care that they are indeed slotted and not merely enlarged, lest the screw shoulder have no surface to bear on.
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Shaker Single-Drawer Cupboard

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012


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Shaker Single-Drawer Cupboard. Part 2.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

The basic carcase (consisting of parts А, В, C, D, E, F, and G) can now be assembled. Give all parts a thorough sanding, then dry assemble to check for a proper fit up. For the most part, the original piece was assembled with cut nails, a technique that was commonly used. Old-fashioned cut nails can still be purchased today. The Tre-mont Nail Co., Box 111, Warcham, MA 02571 sells what they call a «Fine Finish» nail (no. N-19 standard) that will work well. Order the 4d (1 1/2 in. long) size. To minimize any chance of splitting the wood it’s best to first bore a pilot hole for each nail.
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Shaker Single-Drawer Cupboard. Part 3.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

The back boards (parts L) can now be cut to size and rabbeted lengthwise as shown. A pair of cut nails spaced about 2 in. apart are driven into the back edge of parts C, D, and E.

Next, the front frame (parts M, N, and O) is made. The tenons on the bottom end of parts M and N are best cut using the table saw and dado head. Refer to the tenon detail for all dimensions. Once the tenons are cut, lay out and mark the location of the mortises. When making the mortises, you’ll find that most of the waste stock can be removed by cutting a series of holes using a 3/4 in. diameter drill bit. When drilling though, be sure to keep the bit square to the edge so that later, when the frame is assembled, the tenons will fit snugly in the mortises. After the holes are drilled, the remaining waste stock can be cleaned up with a sharp hand chisel.
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Shaker Single-Drawer Cupboard. Part 4.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

The door stiles (P) and rails (Q) can now be cut to length and width. When cutting the stiles, it’s best to allow at least an extra inch on each end. After the mortises are cut, this extra length can be trimmed off. Use a router with a 3/4 in. piloted round-over bit to cut the bead on all rails and stiles. Note that the cutter depth should be set to establish a 1/16 in. step as shown.
Next, use the table saw to cut the ’3/4 in. wide by 3/4 in. deep groove that accepts the panel (R).
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Shaker Single-Drawer Cupboard. Part 5.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

With the panels cut, the doors can be assembled. Apply glue to the mortises and tenons then assemble as shown. The panels must be free to move with changes in humidity, so be sure not to glue them in place.

The drawer (parts T, U, V, and W) can now be made and assembled as shown. Note that the bottom is made using a 1/2 in. thick solid stock beveled on all four edges.
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