Shaving Horse. part 2.

The arm is designed to pivot open when foot pressure is removed, releasing the workpiece. Although we are not absolutely certain of its purpose, we believe that the dowel pin (part I) was intended as a locking mechanism to hold the arm in a fixed position. Because this feature would only be useful in a production environment, when working on repetitive tasks with material of the same thickness, this pin and the hole for it can be eliminated.
To make the shaving horse, first cut stock for parts A through M. Any hardwood can be used. If you do not have a lathe, the turned parts (B and F) can be made square. Use standard dowel stock for the pins (parts H, I, and J) and sand or shave the slight taper on these pieces.

Next lay out the four leg locations. As shown in the splayed leg drilling detail, a guide block is needed as a jig for drilling these leg holes. Make this guide block as illustrated from a block at least 2 1/4 in. thick. Note that the block must be positioned at a 45 degree angle to achieve the even 10 degree splay in each direction.

When assembling the shaving horse use the wedges (C) to lock the leg tenons. It is best to cut these wedges and the pegs (E) a little long so they may later be trimmed Hush. Final sand the shaving horse and rub in several coats of Watco penetrating oil to beautify and protect the wood.

The horsehair seat in the photo was originally leather covered, no doubt a custom touch to ease the strain on some long ago woodworker’s backside. Although a padded seat is by no means a necessity, a nice leather covereu seat fastened with brass tacks is an attractive feature, and will make the shaving horse a good deal more comfortable to sit on.

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