Archive for the ‘Furniture’ Category

Furniture Periods and Styles William and Mary, 1690-1725

Понедельник, Январь 9th, 2012


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Furniture Periods and Styles William and Mary, 1690-1725. part 2

Понедельник, Январь 9th, 2012


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Gate-leg table

Понедельник, Январь 9th, 2012

The gate-leg table is a classic furniture design, one that is characteristic of and first became popular during the William and Mary period. Although our table is not an authentic William and Mary antique, it is a fine turn-of-the-century reproduction in the William and Mary style. The table is from the collection of The Washington Historical Museum, a fascinating museum of Early American, Colonial, and period furnishings located in the picturesque little town of Washington, Connecticut.
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Gate-leg table. part 2.

Понедельник, Январь 9th, 2012

The upper apron assembly (parts В and С), end rails (D), pivot rail (H), and the drawer guide support (M) and drawer guide (N) are all standard mortise and tenon construction. Refer to the apron and rail tenon details for the specific dimensions of these tenons and to figure the corresponding mortises in the legs. When making the upper of the two end rails (D), note that several slotted and countersunk screw holes must be added in this piece, which also serves as a cleat for mounting the top. The top and leaves are made by gluing up stock, with the leaves then rounded out with a saber saw. Refer to the Special Techniques feature beginning on page 22 for detailed instructions on how to make the rule joint shown in the rule joint detail.
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Gate-leg table. part 3.

Понедельник, Январь 9th, 2012

For the final assembly begin by making the two end frame and the two pivot leg assemblies. Also join the two side stretchers with the two remaining cross stretchers. Now join the end assemblies, the lower stretcher assembly and the side aprons to make the table frame. Note that the grooves in these side aprons, cut to accept the drawer guide support, are purposely cut oversize (long). This is done so the guide support can be angled into place after the table frame has been assembled. The drawer guide is also mounted at this time, although it should not be permanently glued until the drawer has been test-fitted for smooth opening and closing. A little paraffin on the guide will reduce friction and wear.
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Computer Desk

Понедельник, Январь 9th, 2012

We held back as long as we could, but the computer revolution has finally penetrated even here to The Woodworker’s Journal. So, here it is at last — our computer desk. Although we know that many Journal readers own computers, it was our intention when designing this project to offer a piece that would also serve well as a regular desk for those readers who do not have a computer. We believe that the end product of our research is a handsome, versatile, functional design, whether you use it for a computer or as a traditional desk.
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Computer Desk . part 2.

Понедельник, Январь 9th, 2012

The computer desk is easy and inexpensive to build. Although we used oak, both for its strength and because oak veneer plywood is commonly available, almost any hardwood can be used. As shown in the plywood cutting diagram (Fig. 1), all the plywood pieces (the three shelves: parts A, B, and C; and the main shelf backing strips: parts D and E) can be cut from one half sheet of plywood. All the other parts for the desk can be cut with the table saw from standard 3/4 in. stock, When cutting the plywood use a plywood blade to provide a smooth cut and help prevent chip-out along the edges. Next, cut all the hardwood components, parts F through P. Half-lap the feet (L) and legs (M and N) as shown in the half-lap detail (Fig. 2), and notch the back legs to accept the two stretchers (O) as shown in the stretcher detail (Fig. 3).
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Pivot-top Game/Coffee Table

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

This contemporary game/coffee table is one of the best looking pieces we have seen in a long time. Although we can only describe them to you, the beautiful colors in the contrasting Carpathian elm and white ash burl game board faces (available from Constantine’s; see Bill of Materials) are striking indeed.
The coffee table is unique in that its pivoting top actually makes it two tables in one. The opposite side of the top is a plain ash veneer, also available from Constantine’s. The design of the table incorporates an interesting split-turning technique which will be explained later.
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Pivot-top Game/Coffee Table. Part 2.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

Now, lay two of the four particle board pieces on your workbench (with the edges flush) and cover the top piece with wax paper. Note that the «good» side of the game veneer is covered with tape. In order to flatten it, you’ll first need to moisten the opposite or «down» side with a mixture of glycerine (available at any drug store) and water. Mix one part glycerine and two parts water and pour the solution into an old plastic spray bottle (see shop tip on page 51). Spray the «down» side of the veneer so that the entire surface is moistened, but not so much that it becomes soaked. Now place it on the wax paper, cover it with more wax paper and place the remaining two sheets of particle board on top.
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Pivot-top Game/Coffee Table. Part 3.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

Once again, lay two of the particle board pieces on the workbench and cover with wax paper. Place the flattened game board on the wax paper, good side down, then place the plywood on top and align the edges. Now lay the ash veneer (C), good side up, on the plywood, again aligning the edges. Add more wax paper to the top, then use the caul cleats to apply clamp pressure. Apply the center cleat first and work toward each end with the remaining cleats. It’s important to apply pressure to as much of the surface as is possible, so if you have any C-clamps saw can be used to rip the opposite edge. If your table saw can’t crosscut 24 in. wide stock, you’ll need to use the router to make the end cuts.


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Pivot-top Game/Coffee Table. Part 4.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

The top can now be final sanded, with several coats of Watco Danish Oil applied as a final finish.

All legs and aprons are made on the lathe using a technique called split turning. In short, a split turning consists of stock glued with paper in between to form a blank. After turning, a chisel is used to split the blank apart at the paper seam to produce four duplicate parts.
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Pivot-top Game/Coffee Table. Part 5.

Воскресенье, Февраль 5th, 2012

The notch for the locking pin is cut on the side aprons (J) as shown in Fig. 5, then the 5/16 in. diameter hole is bored at a point 5/16 in. from the top edge (Fig. 6). Use the drill press with a stop block to insure that all four holes are in the same location. Also use the same set up to bore the pivot pin hole on the end apron (K).
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