Таble Saw Basics. part5

Январь 9th, 2012

Crosscut a board with the miter gauge set at zero and use your square to check the squareness of the end of the board (Fig. 8).

Now check the blade for a true 45 degree incline by loosening the tilt handle and cranking the blade over to the left as far as it will go. Use your combination square (less the blade) to check the angle of the saw blade (Fig. 9). Again, the blade should rest flush against the inclined face of the square and the pointer should read 45 degrees. If necessary, reset the left-hand stop collar at the back of the machine. Crosscut a board with the blade inclined and check the accuracy of this edge miter cut.
Read the rest of this entry »

Таble Saw Basics. part6

Январь 9th, 2012

If your fence has a width-of-cut scale, set it by measuring from a right blade tooth to the fence. This scale is a rough guide at best and should not be relied on except for rough work. For critical work (and most of it is) use a good steel rule to measure the exact distance the fence should be set from a tooth on the right side of the blade.
Read the rest of this entry »

Special Techniques Making the Rule Joint

Январь 9th, 2012

The rule joint is a traditional fine furniture feature used most commonly with tables having one or more drop leaves. When properly executed the joint makes for an especially attractive detail along the edges where the hinged leaves and fixed table surface meet. The design of the joint serves to effectively conceal the hinge plate whether the leaves are in the open or closed position.
The term «rule joint» is believed to have derived from the brass bound folding boxwood rules that were popular from the 1600′s on. The knuckles where these rules folded closely resembled the rule joint. By the time of the William and Mary period the rule joint was quite common.
Read the rest of this entry »

Special Techniques Making the Rule Joint. part 2.

Январь 9th, 2012

No matter which technique is used, the first and most important step is to correctly lay out the position of the joint. There are two key elements to consider: the hinge location and the coordinates of the radius. The thickness of the stock and the size of the bits or cutters can also be factored in, however for practical purposes we have assumed that the stock thickness will be in the area of 3/4 to 1 in., a range which encompasses the thicknesses of most common table-tops. Although theoretically the bit or cutter is determined by the stock thickness, we have found that matching 1.2i in. cove and round-over bits or cutters can be used to shape a nearly perfect rule joint in stock 3/4 to 1 in. thick. As shown in Fig. 1 the only difference will be a deeper shoulder on the thicker material.
Read the rest of this entry »

Special Techniques Making the Rule Joint. part 3.

Январь 9th, 2012

Fig. 3 shows a basic formula for locating and cutting a typical rule joint when the hinges are to be mortised in place, as they usually are. Distance A is one-half the knuckle diameter. Distances В and С are the radii of the joint and are, of course, equal to the bit or cutter size, which we have set at a constant 1/2; in. Distance D is the shoulder depth and corresponding lip thickness, which should not be less than 1/2, in. The critical point to know in all this technical talk is this: for the rule joint to open and close smoothly the center or pivot point of the hinge knuckle should be located near the intersecting point of radius lines В and C. In actual practice, when mounting the hinge it helps to cheat a little and install the knuckle a hair (‘/2 in.) toward the leaf side of the joint.
Read the rest of this entry »

Furniture Periods and Styles William and Mary, 1690-1725

Январь 9th, 2012


Read the rest of this entry »

Furniture Periods and Styles William and Mary, 1690-1725. part 2

Январь 9th, 2012


Read the rest of this entry »

Gate-leg table

Январь 9th, 2012

The gate-leg table is a classic furniture design, one that is characteristic of and first became popular during the William and Mary period. Although our table is not an authentic William and Mary antique, it is a fine turn-of-the-century reproduction in the William and Mary style. The table is from the collection of The Washington Historical Museum, a fascinating museum of Early American, Colonial, and period furnishings located in the picturesque little town of Washington, Connecticut.
Read the rest of this entry »

Gate-leg table. part 2.

Январь 9th, 2012

The upper apron assembly (parts В and С), end rails (D), pivot rail (H), and the drawer guide support (M) and drawer guide (N) are all standard mortise and tenon construction. Refer to the apron and rail tenon details for the specific dimensions of these tenons and to figure the corresponding mortises in the legs. When making the upper of the two end rails (D), note that several slotted and countersunk screw holes must be added in this piece, which also serves as a cleat for mounting the top. The top and leaves are made by gluing up stock, with the leaves then rounded out with a saber saw. Refer to the Special Techniques feature beginning on page 22 for detailed instructions on how to make the rule joint shown in the rule joint detail.
Read the rest of this entry »

Gate-leg table. part 3.

Январь 9th, 2012

For the final assembly begin by making the two end frame and the two pivot leg assemblies. Also join the two side stretchers with the two remaining cross stretchers. Now join the end assemblies, the lower stretcher assembly and the side aprons to make the table frame. Note that the grooves in these side aprons, cut to accept the drawer guide support, are purposely cut oversize (long). This is done so the guide support can be angled into place after the table frame has been assembled. The drawer guide is also mounted at this time, although it should not be permanently glued until the drawer has been test-fitted for smooth opening and closing. A little paraffin on the guide will reduce friction and wear.
Read the rest of this entry »

Computer Desk

Январь 9th, 2012

We held back as long as we could, but the computer revolution has finally penetrated even here to The Woodworker’s Journal. So, here it is at last — our computer desk. Although we know that many Journal readers own computers, it was our intention when designing this project to offer a piece that would also serve well as a regular desk for those readers who do not have a computer. We believe that the end product of our research is a handsome, versatile, functional design, whether you use it for a computer or as a traditional desk.
Read the rest of this entry »

Computer Desk . part 2.

Январь 9th, 2012

The computer desk is easy and inexpensive to build. Although we used oak, both for its strength and because oak veneer plywood is commonly available, almost any hardwood can be used. As shown in the plywood cutting diagram (Fig. 1), all the plywood pieces (the three shelves: parts A, B, and C; and the main shelf backing strips: parts D and E) can be cut from one half sheet of plywood. All the other parts for the desk can be cut with the table saw from standard 3/4 in. stock, When cutting the plywood use a plywood blade to provide a smooth cut and help prevent chip-out along the edges. Next, cut all the hardwood components, parts F through P. Half-lap the feet (L) and legs (M and N) as shown in the half-lap detail (Fig. 2), and notch the back legs to accept the two stretchers (O) as shown in the stretcher detail (Fig. 3).
Read the rest of this entry »